Chikwata chinohwina mubairo chevatapi venhau, vagadziri uye vatambi vevhidhiyo vanotaura nyaya dzemhando kuburikidza neFast Company yakasarudzika lenzi.
Pandakanga ndichipinda mune zvekuchengetedza paLaGuardia Airport nguva pfupi yadarika, mukadzi wepadhesiki rekuchekwa akaburitsa bhegi rekuputira bhegi repink rakazara nezvimbuzi ndokuriisa patireyi.Kunyange zvazvo pabhegi pakanga pasina logos kana zvinyoro, ndakabva ndangoziva kuti akazviwana kukambani yeGlossier yezvizorwa.Kubva payakatangwa muna 2014, Glossier yakarongedza chigadzirwa chose chakatengwa pamhepo kana muchitoro mumabhegi aya akasiyana.Kana wakambotenga nerudzi urwu, kana kungotsvaga Glossier's Instagram feed, unozoziva bhegi iri nekukurumidza sezvarinouya mune siginecha yaGlossier yepinki ine chena uye tsvuku zipi.
Glossier anonzwisisa kukosha kwekurongedza uku mukubudirira kwekambani, iyo yakasimudza madhora mazana maviri emamiriyoni emari yebhizimusi pamutengo wemadhora bhiriyoni mazana matatu.Glossier inozivikanwa nekuda kwezvizoro uye zvigadzirwa zvekuchengetedza ganda uye ine kapoka kanotevera, asi kurongedza kunonakidza kwemhando, zvimiti zvemahara, uye mavara epingi anoperekedza chero zvese zvinogadzirwa nemhando inoita kuti chiitiko cheGlossier chive chinenge chisipo.Muna 2018, mapakeji aya akatorwa nevatengi vatsva miriyoni imwe, achigadzira zana remamiriyoni emadhora mumari.Ndosaka magweta ekambani ari kunetsekana nekutengesa bhegi repink ziplock.Nekudaro, Glossier inoratidzika kunge iine hondo yekukwira yekuisa chiratidzo chekurongedza kwayo.
Nepo iyo United States Patent uye Trademark Hofisi (USPTO) ine nhoroondo refu yekunyoresa marogo uye akasiyana echigadzirwa mazita, kushambadzira zvimwe zvinhu zvechiratidzo, sekurongedza, ipfungwa nyowani.Iyo USPTO yakanyoresa akawanda maficha eGlossier brand, kubva pa "G" logo kusvika kune akasiyana zvigadzirwa mazita akadai ane mukurumbira Balm Dotcom kana Boy Brow.Asi USPTO payakagamuchira chikumbiro chechiratidzo chemabhegi, sangano rakaramba kuzvitendera.
Julie Zerbo, gweta rinonyora nezvemutemo wefashoni kublog rake The Fashion Law, ari kunyatsotevera kunyoreswa kwechiratidzo cheGlossier.Chinangwa chekupedzisira chaGlossier ndechekudzivirira mamwe mabhureki kuti agadzire kuputira kwakafanana kune zvigadzirwa zvawo, izvo zvinogona kunetesa mufananidzo weGlossier uye kuita kuti bhegi nezvose zviri mukati zvisade kudiwa nevatengi.Muchokwadi, Glossier anocherekedza kuti mugadziri weshangu nebhegi Jimmy Choo akaburitsa chikwama chepink muna 2016 chine manyoro anotevedzera mabhegi epink Glossier.Chiratidzo chichaita kuti zviome kune mamwe mabhureki kukopa bhegi nenzira iyi.
Mutsananguro inobatsira, Zebo inoburitsa zvikonzero zvakawanda nei USPTO yaramba chikumbiro.Kune rimwe divi, trademark mutemo unoenderana nekugona kwemutengi kubatanidza chiratidzo nechinhu chimwe chete kana mhando.Semuyenzaniso, Hermès ane mucherechedzo pasilhouette yebhegi reBirkin uye Christian Louboutin ane mucherechedzo parutsvuku rweshangu nekuti muzviitiko zvese izvi, makambani ese ari maviri anogona kutaura zvinogutsa kuti vatengi vanozivisa zvigadzirwa izvi ne: A single brand.
USPTO inoti zvakawoma kuita nharo imwechete yemabhegi eGlossier nekuti kuputira kwebubble kwakajairika mukurongedza uye kutumira.Asi kune mamwe matambudziko zvakare.Trademark mutemo wakagadzirirwa kuchengetedza aesthetic dhizaini, kwete mashandiro echigadzirwa.Izvi zvinodaro nekuti trademark haina kuitirwa kupa brand ine chaiyo utilitarian mabhenefiti.Iyo USPTO inotsanangura mabhegi se "akanyatso gadzirwa" nekuti iyo bubble wrap inodzivirira zviri mukati.“Iri idambudziko nekuti mafambisirwo akaitwa zvinhu imhinganidzo yekunyoresa,” akadaro Zebo.
Glossier haidzokeri shure.Glossier akaisa bepa idzva 252 peji svondo rapfuura.Mariri, iyo mhando inotsanangura kuti Glossier haadi kutengeserana bhegi pachayo, asi chaiyo mumvuri wepingi wakaiswa kune yakatarwa mhando uye gadziriso yekurongedza.(Zvakafanana naChristian Louboutin achitsanangura kuti chiratidzo chinofanira kunge chiri chimwe mumvuri wemutsvuku wakaiswa kune zvigaro zvebhutsu dzemhando, kwete shangu pachadzo.)
Chinangwa chemagwaro matsva aya ndechekuratidza kuti mupfungwa dzevatengi, mabhegi anonyanya kushamwaridzana nemhando.Zvakaoma kuratidza.Pandakaona Glossier bhegi rakapfava muTSA muunganidzwa, ndakabva ndariziva, asi rudzi rwakaratidza sei kuti vatengi vazhinji vaizova nemaitiro akafanana neni?Mukutaura kwake, Glossier akapa zvinyorwa zvemagazini nemapepanhau zvichitaura nezvekushandiswa kwepiniki teabag, pamwe chete nevatengi vesocial media mabhegi epiniki.Asi hazvizivikanwe kana USPTO ichatenga mune idzi nharo.
Nekudaro, chishuwo chaGlossier chekuisa kurongedza kwacho chinotaura zvakawanda nezvechizvino mhando.Kwemakumi emakore, marogo ave aine simba guru.Izvi zvinodaro nekuti zvechinyakare bhiribhodhi uye kushambadza kwemagazini kwakanakira kuratidza static logos.Mumakore ekuma90, apo logos yakanga iri mufashoni, kupfeka T-shati neGucci kana Louis Vuitton logo yakanga inotonhorera.Asi mumakumi emakore achangopfuura, maitiro aya apera sezvo mhando dzakasarudza kuchena, kushoma kutaridzika, kusina logos uye overt branding.
Izvi zvinokonzerwa nekupa kwechizvarwa chitsva chekutanga-kune-mutengi kutanga seEverlane, M.Gemi naCuyana, avo vakatora nemaune nzira yakanyanyisa kumhando yavo, kunyanya kuzvisiyanisa kubva kune mamwe mafashoni.Mhando dzemhando yepamusoro dzekare.Zvigadzirwa zvavo kazhinji hazvina logos zvachose, maererano nehuzivi hwavo hwekutengesa zvemhando yepamusoro, zvigadzirwa zvinogara nemutengo mukuru pane kukurudzira kushandiswa kuri pachena.
Kudonhedzwa kwelogos zvakare kunopindirana nekusimuka kwe e-commerce, zvinoreva kuti ma brand anofanirwa kunge achigadzira mukugadzirisa kwaanoita uye kutumira zvigadzirwa zvawo kune vatengi.MaBrand anowanzo dyara mari yakawanda mukugadzira yakasarudzika "unboxing" yevatengi nekurongedza zvigadzirwa zvavo mune yakasarudzika bepa uye kurongedza kunoratidza zvinomirirwa nemhando.Vazhinji vatengi vanobva vagovana ruzivo rwavo pa Instagram kana YouTube, zvinoreva kuti vanhu vazhinji vanozviona.Everlane, semuenzaniso, inosarudza huremu, minimalist, inodzokororwa kurongedza zvinoenderana nehuzivi hwayo hwekusimudzira.Glossier, kune rumwe rutivi, inouya mune inonakidza uye yemusikana pasuru ine zvimiti uye homwe yepingi.Munyika itsva iyi, zvigadzirwa zvepamhepo, kusanganisira kurongedza, zvakangoerekana zvafanana nemakambani akazvigadzira.
Dambudziko, hongu, nderekuti, sezvinoratidzwa nenyaya yeGlossier, zvakawoma kuti mabhureki azvipembedze seakakodzera aya manomano mafomu ekumaka.Pakupedzisira, mutemo une miganhu kana zvasvika pakudzivirira mhando yekambani.Zvichida chidzidzo ndechekuti kana brand ichizobudirira munyika yanhasi yekutengesa, inofanirwa kuve yekugadzira panguva yese yekudyidzana kwevatengi, kubva pakurongedza kuenda muchitoro sevhisi.
Dr. Elizabeth Segran Munyori Mukuru kuFast Company.Anogara muCambridge Massachusetts.
Nguva yekutumira: Aug-07-2023
